“It was an eve of summer, mild, / . . . / That as in lethargy it lay”
(MS VIII, Poems [1891]; Works [1903])—W. G. Collingwoodʼs
identification of this poem, untitled in draft, with
Lago Maggiore, can be supported by some descriptive
details in the poem (albeit tenuous ones) as well as by circumstantial details in
Mary Richardsonʼs travel diary. If arguably correct about the poemʼs subject, however,
Collingwood misplaced it in the sequence of poems in his edition, situating it between
“Milan Cathedral”
and
“Genoa”. A route from
Milan to
Genoa via
Lago Maggiore was certainly an option,
with
Bellinzona on the north shore of
Lago Maggiore having long served as a juncture between northern
Italy and
Switzerland—“anciently” via the
St. Gothard Pass,
and in the post‐Napoleonic era of modern carriage roads via the
San Bernardino Pass
(
Hand‐book for Travellers in Switzerland, 93;
William Brockedon, Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps
[“The Mont Saint Gothard”, 2; “The Passes of the Bernardin and the Splugen”, 12]). The Ruskins approached
Lago Maggiore
from the south, however, keeping within
Piedmont and arriving at
Arona on the south shore, after visiting
Genoa,
Turin, and
Novara.
In
Arona,
Mary Richardson records, the Ruskins lodged in a hotel “close to the water”, spending their first afternoon “out on the balcony . . . enjoying the beautiful view up and down the lake”—perhaps
the origin of the peacefulness conveyed in
Ruskinʼs poem. According to
Mary, the Ruskins considered this view “far superior” to the more dramatic
mountain scenery surrounding
Lago di Como, the gentle hills around
Lago Maggiore and more distant snowy
Alps suggesting to them the homely
“view from
Malvern” (
Diary of Mary Richardson, 1833, 63, 62).