“Heidelberg” (MS VIII)—Of
the subjects listed, only the last one can be definitely identified with a source—
At Braubach on the Rhine from
Facsimiles of Sketches Made in Flanders and Germany by
Samuel Prout (1783–1852).
Why
Ruskin associated
Braubach with the section on
Heidelberg is not clear.
Perhaps by placing this scene at the end of the section he meant to afford a retrospective glance at the journey along the
Middle Rhine,
just as the phrase “the castellated Rhine” from
Don Juan
prompted
Turner to devise the vignette
The Castellated Rhine for the
Works of Lord Byron as a more evocative than specifically topographical illustration
(vol. 17, frontispiece):
. . . castellated Rhine:—
Ye glorious Gothic scenes! how much ye strike
All phantasies, not even excepting mine:
A grey wall, a green ruin, rusty pike,
Make my soul pass the equinoctial line
Between the present and past worlds, and hover
Upon their airy confine, half seas‐over.
In
Proutʼs
At Braubach on the Rhine,
the view dramatizes the steep
Rhine Gorge cliffs, surmounted by castle ruins overlooking the river,
which recede beyond the turret of the
Braubach Gasthaus, situated on the river shore in the foreground.
The Ruskins would have passed by
Braubach on
May 30 on the route from
Koblenz to
Boppard.
Mary Richardson does not mention the town specifically, although she does list the
Marksburg, the castle above
Braubach,
among the ruins the family viewed along the
Middle Rhine
(
Diary of Mary Richardson, 1833, 24).
A similar retrospection structures the illustrations planned for the section on
“St. Goar”.
None of the other subjects can be definitely identified with print sources, including the “Old House” by
Prout.
Proutʼs
Facsimiles
contains no architectural scenes in the streets of
Heidelberg; its sole view connected with the city depicts the Renaissance facade of the
castle.
Since that scene shows daytime activities, it also cannot have been planned to serve
Ruskinʼs proposal here for “Castle by moonlight”.
A moonlit image of the distant castle does appear in
Heathʼs Picturesque Annual for 1833—
Clarkson Stanfieldʼs
Castle of Heidelberg—which
draws on
Leitch Ritchieʼs accompanying speculation about “what forms, that the eye of day never looked on,
meet and wander there, or what voices are those that shriek on the gusts of night”
(
Travelling Sketches on the Rhine, and in Belgium and Holland, 49 and opp.).
A similar mood is conveyed by a moonlight view of
Heidelberg Castle,
The Great Court of Heidelberg, drawn by
David Roberts for the
1834 edition of
Pilgrims of the Rhine by
Edward Bulwer‐Lytton.
The engraving shows the Renaissance facade of the castle, which is observed by a solitary figure. This appearance of solitude is queried by
Bulwer‐Lyttonʼs narrator, who, like
Ritchie,
poses a rhetorical question about the presence of spirits—a wonder that is reflected in many passages of
Ruskinʼs
“Account”:
“Who shall say what millions of spiritual beings glide invisibly among scenes apparently the most deserted?”
To suggest the presence of these beings surrounding
Robertsʼs solitary spectator, this chapter headpiece engraving is answered by a tailpiece vignette,
The Visit at Moonlight,
drawn by
E. T. Parris, in which fairies gather around a tomb. This scene adumbrates the sad conclusion of the novelʼs journey:
Heidelberg will prove the final destination of the travelers,
since the heroine,
Gertrude, will expire while visiting the “haunted valley of the
Neckar”,
leaving her father,
Vane, and lover,
Trevylyan, to return bereft to
England
(
Bulwer‐Lytton, Pilgrims of the Rhine, 321 opp., 321, 314).
Both
Ritchieʼs and
Bulwer‐Lyttonʼs
illustrated texts were owned by the Ruskins (
Dearden, The Library of John Ruskin, 278 [no. 2169], 212 [no. 1637]),
but
Bulwer‐Lyttonʼs tale is especially resonant with
Ruskinʼs proposed series of images.
The fairies, who have accompanied the travelers throughout their tour, gather in the Great Court of
Heidelberg Castle
to sing the
“Song of the Fairies in the Ruins of Heidelberg”;
and then they fly to a “small green spot” in the forest by the
Neckar, which they know “by instinct” will become
Gertrudeʼs grave.
Their mourning is interrupted by the appearance of the
Dark Witch of the Blight and Blast,
who may be the source of
Ruskinʼs projected illustration of a “Spectre”. Moreover, a history is related of this spot,
telling of a hermit “in the early ages of Christianity” who retired here, relinquishing a Byronic existence
“mingl[ing] the poet with the lawless chief”. Events had parted him from a damsel, “the presider over the tournament and gaillard”—a
detail that might have suggested
Ruskinʼs planned “tournament” picture
(
Bulwer‐Lytton, Pilgrims of the Rhine, 321–22, 324, 332).
While
Bulwer‐Lyttonʼs story is not necessarily required to make sense of
Ruskinʼs scheme for illustrating
“Heidelberg”,
which sufficiently corresponds to the fancies about sprites, spectres, and medieval chivalry in the sectionʼs poem,
“Now from the smiling afternoon” [“Heidelberg”],
Ruskinʼs engagement with
Bulwer‐Lyttonʼs novel was a timely addition to the Ruskinsʼ library in
June 1834
(
Benchmark Acquisitions of Influential Illustrated Travel Publications).
For another possible adaptation of
Pilgrims of the Rhine in the
“Account”,
see
“The Rhine”.
“St Goar” (MS VIII)—Ruskin
does not identify print sources for these subjects; and in the current state of
MS IX,
no images are set in place for the
“St. Goar” section.
As proposed here, a pair of features associated with
St Goar—the “whirlpool”
that churns the river beneath the
Lorelei, and the
Burg Rheinfels
castle ruin that rises above the town—would respectively have headed the poem and the essay of the
“St. Goar” section.
(The whirlpool features in the poem,
“We past a rock, whose bare front ever”;
the castle is not mentioned in the essay,
“St Goar is the least and sweetest place on all the Rhine”.)
Set between these headpieces and at the end, respectively, tailpieces were to be formed by another complementary pair: images of
Godesberg and of
Drachenfels,
referring to prominences with castles on opposite sides of the
Rhine below
Bonn.
The latter images hearkened to the commencement of the Ruskinsʼ
Rhine journey. (The
Godesberg
is mentioned in the essay.)
Many print sources of these subjects were available in the Ruskin family library. For the castle views,
Ruskin
could have found models drawn by
Clarkson Stanfield in
Ritchie, Travelling Sketches on the Rhine, and in Belgium and Holland,
which was
Heathʼs Picturesque Annual for 1833. In
Stanfieldʼs
frontispiece,
St. Goar,
a figure reclines in a stone archway which frames
Burg Rheinfels, looking down on the village and the river. A dramatic view of the castle
from the river below by
David Roberts,
The Ruins of Rheinfels, is included in
Bulwer‐Lytton, Pilgrims of the Rhine
by
Edward Bulwer‐Lytton (p. 297 opp.).
For the
Drachenfels,
The Pilgrims of the Rhine,
reduces the subject to a vignette engraving after
David Roberts,
Drachenfels (p. 100).
In
Travelling Sketches on the Rhine,
The Drachenfels
is a full‐page plate by
Stanfield, depicting figures on a path high above the river plain,
with
Burg Drachenfels towering still higher on the peak above them.
Leitch Ritchie attributes this view to a “place mentioned in the notes to
Childe Harold, as being distinguished by a cross commemorative of the murder of a chief by his brother”.
The remark points to the sway that canto 3 of
Childe Haroldʼs Pilgrimage
held over the British imaginative experience of the
Rhine. (
Ritchie misreads
Byronʼs note on
Drachenfels, however, which places
the cross on the opposite bank of the river from
Drachenfels.
Byron
probably refers to the fourteenth‐century
Hochkreuz on the road between
Bonn and
Godesberg.
The cross, which is now held in the Rheinisches Landesmuseum,
Bonn,
along with
Godesburg Castle, is connected with legends both of fratricide and of child murder.)
See
Ritchie, Travelling Sketches on the Rhine, and in Belgium and Holland, 158 and opp.;
Byron, Complete Poetical Works, ed. McGann, 2:304–5; and see
Ruland, Legends of the Rhine, 221–29; and
Snowe, The Rhine, 1:228–31].
For the
Godesberg,
Travelling Sketches on the Rhine includes an engraving after
Stanfield,
The Castle of Godesberg, featuring the castle ruin in the foreground, and
the
Drachenfels and
Siebengebirge in the distance
(
Ritchie, Travelling Sketches on the Rhine, and in Belgium and Holland, 162 opp.).
Print sources for images of the
Lorelei and whirlpool available to
Ruskin in
1833–34 are not yet identified.
“Coblentz” (MS VIII)—Of the two projected “Fortress” drawings,
the one
not labeled “my own” must refer to the
vignette presently in place at the head of the section,
“Ehrenbreitstein”, in
MS IX, a vignette based on the engraving,
Ehrenbreitstein by
Robert Wallis after
J. M. W. Turner,
first published in the
Keepsake for MDCCCXXXIII (see
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress [drawing]).
Ruskinʼs “own” drawing of the
Ehrenbreitstein fortress is unidentified.
“Pines” must also refer to an existing vignette in the section,
“Ehrenbreitstein”, in
MS IX,
the small drawing
Pines on Bank of the Rhine.
(
Ruskinʼs cancelations by striking through these identifiers probably indicates that he considered the drawings completed.)
The sole proposed image in this list that
Ruskin did not score through—and therefore, presumably, did not produce—is a vignette of a “tower”
by
Prout. While this designation is too sketchy to identify with certainty, one may logically suppose that
Ruskin remained consistent in relying on
Samuel Proutʼs
Facsimiles of Sketches Made in Flanders and Germany
as his source, and that he therefore referred to the lithograph
Coblence, the single view of the city included in the portfolio.
This was the “specimen print” of “the turreted window over the
Moselle,
at
Coblentz”, mentioned in
Praeterita
as being on display when
Ruskin accompanied his
father “into the shop where subscribers entered
their names” for
Proutʼs volume
(
Ruskin, Works, 35:79).
John Jamesʼs name heads the printed list of subscribers. Here, by specifying “vignette”,
Ruskin means that he would form some portion of
Proutʼs large rectangular scene into that reduced shape.
The Gothic building on the waterfront in the foreground of Proutʼs picture,
which Ruskin calls a “tower” in his list of illustrations,
appears to be the Moselle facade of the Schöffenhaus (1528–30,
now restored following extensive damage by air raids in 1944). The taller twin towers in the background
belong to the nearby Florinskirche,
a twelfth‐century Romanesque church, the lines of which in Proutʼs lithograph can be clearly traced in the present‐day church,
except for Proutʼs domed roofs, which were replaced in 1899 by the tall pointed spires seen today.
These buildings originally formed part of the mercantile and religious center of Gothic Koblenz.
When sketching this scene in
Koblenz,
Prout may have been interested in the recent history
of the
Florinskirche, which was secularized in
1803 and made to serve as an armaments magazine during the cityʼs occupation
by French Revolutionary troops.
Napoleon threatened to convert the church into a municipal slaughterhouse with stalls for animals.
Before this desecration could be carried out, the fall of
Napoleon resulted in the the city being ceded to
Prussia as part of its western province, the
Rheinland.
The church was then reconsecrated in
1820 as a Protestant parish church—the first in
Koblenz—at the behest of
the king of
Prussia,
Friedrich Wilhelm III (
1770–1840), who was dedicated to establishing a uniform Protestant state church throughout his realm.
Friedrich Wilhelm was representative of conservative religious orthodoxy in
Europe, which prevailed in reaction to Enlightenment thought after the defeat of
Revolutionary France
(see
Bigler, The Politics of German Protestantism, 37–38, 47–49).
“Strasburg” (MS VIII)—“The well”
by
Prout could refer to either of the two plates entitled
Strasbourg in
Samuel Proutʼs
Facsimiles of Sketches Made in Flanders and Germany,
since both feature public water sources in the foreground of town square scenes. The second plate, however, appears more specifically to depict a well,
which is equipped with a pulley and chain set in crossbar. The crossbar is supported by two miniature castellated towers.
“The swiss cottages” is the title of a proposed section of the
“Account” in Table 1 of the
List of Proposed Additional Contents for the “Account”.
That the title is here reduced to apply to an illustration suggests that
Ruskin now decided to combine that section with
“Strasburg”.
The source from which he proposed to derive the illustration of Swiss cottages is unknown; however, since his annotation of this title with an × may suggest
that he completed the drawing—especially since he also added the numeral “1” in the margin, meaning that one drawing in this list was accomplished.
If extant, the drawing is probably
Mountain Scene with Chalet,
one of the untitled drawings in the gallery appended to the
“Account” in
MS IX.
The intention of the fragmentary French phrase “Un de les” (One of the) is unknown, but the following item, “
William Tell”,
can indeed be found in
The Boyʼs Own Book: A Complete Encyclopaedia of All the Diversions, Athletic, Scientific, and Recreative, of Boyhood and Youth
(
1828) by
William Clarke (
1800–38). An engraved vignette serving to head the chapter on archery depicts the legendary scene described in the caption:
“To save his own and
Albertʼs life /
Tell is to shoot an apple from the head / Of his own child”. In the foreground,
a boy young enough still to be wearing a skirt stands with his back to a tree and an apple on his head, gazing at his father drawing his bow.
Why
Ruskin placed a reference to the legend of
William Tell in the section about
Strasbourg is unclear,
apart from the itineraryʼs verging on the
Black Forest and “Swiss” cottages;
indeed,
Ruskin himself, in his prose essay for the section,
“It was a wide and stretchy sweep of lovely blue champaign”,
admits to an unconnected jumble of associations—including
William Tell—tumbling unwilled into the speakerʼs mind.
For the origins of the
Tell legend in bolstering belief in the Swiss Confederacy as an alternative polity to feudal monarchy,
see
Church and Head, Concise History of Switzerland, 70–71.
Marc H. Lerner has traced the European dissemination of the legend through two distinct interpretations,
one favoring resistance to tyranny by popular revolt, and another promoting liberty while accommodating the claims of patrician leadership.
In
Britain in the
second half of the 1820s, the latter interpretation prevailed in a popular play,
William Tell (
1825)
by
James Sheridan Knowles (
1784–1862) and starring
William Charles Macready (
1793–1873). This version bestowed a prominent role on
Tellʼs son,
Albert. In the plot,
Lerner explains,
Albert leads “a lost and terrified
Gessler, the tyrant of
Uri,
through the mountain passes back to the safety of
Altdorf, the cantonʼs main town.
Tellʼs son demonstrates the virtue of the entire
Tell clan
because he does this act of kindness without caring who
Gessler is.
Gessler is confused by such action and then angered by
Tellʼs son
when he speaks of virtue. This device of children guiding
Gessler to safety out of the mountains and his need to reassert control
after his perceived humiliation . . . leads to the apple shot in the village square. . . . The virtue of the young . . .
comes shining through as opposed to the corruption of older rulers and the city. . . . Additionally,
Tellʼs son is a model of behavior for young readers; the young should act virtuously and prepare to do what is right for their country”
(
Lerner, “William Tellʼs Atlantic Travels”, 102).
“Werdenberg” (MS VIII)—Ruskin
possibly planned to invent his own drawings for this section, since two of the scenes correspond to the travelersʼ actual experiences. “Haymakers” corresponds to
Mary Richardsonʼs comment that, when stopping for horses
before arriving at
Werdenberg, the people were “very busy getting in hay”; and that after setting off again, they encountered
“a good deal of thunder and lightning accompanied by rain”, making the mountains appear “very grand in the storm”. The family reached
Sargans
the next morning for breakfast (
Diary of Mary Richardson, 1833, 38).
“On the
Rhine” presumably refers to this itinerary after the Ruskins departed from
Constance.
As the family read in
Ebelʼs guidebook,
Lake Constance, which
ranks as the largest lake in
Switzerland, is formed by the
Rhine, originating in the mountains.
The lake lies in the foothills of the
Alps “surrounded by hills covered with vineyards”, although, according to
Ebel,
“the prospects are not so picturesque as those of
Lake Geneva”,
the other major lake defining a part of
Switzerlandʼs borders. Departing
Constance, the Ruskins rode alongside the
Rhine, contrary to its flow,
toward
Werdenberg and
Sargans, into the interior of
Switzerland
(see
Ebel, Travellerʼs Guide through Switzerland, 227).
By scoring through this title—unless he meant simply to transfer it to the following section,
“Pfaffers”, as
“On the
Rhine near
Tusis”—
Ruskin
may have indicated that he completed the drawing. The proposed drawing appears to correspond with the subject of
River Drawing
included in the gallery of unascribed drawings at the end of
MS IX.
“Pfaffers” (MS VIII)—If
“Ravine” is a title by itself, it may refer to the
Tamina Gorge, where the
Pfäfers mineral springs were accessed.
A source for this image is unidentified. Logically, the following titles,
“On the
Rhine near
Tusis” and “
Coire”, should be reversed,
since the southern‐bound traveler first reaches
Coire (or
Chur),
followed by the confluence of the
Vorderrhein and the
Hinterrhein at
Reichenau,
and finally the
Domleschg Valley watered by the
Hinterrhein and leading to
Thusis
(see
Ruskinʼs poem
“Via Mala” and its contextual glosses).
Specific sources for the latter two illustrations are also unidentified. The final illustration, however,
Chateau of Trostberg,
is credited to
William Brockedonʼs
Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps—and
yet this scene does not belong here, since it forms part of
Brockedonʼs gallery of engravings
for the
Brenner Pass in the
Tyrol. Perhaps
Ruskin chose this illustration because it reminded him of the
Hohen Rätien Castle in the
Domleschg Valley,
which occupies a site topographically similar to that of the
Trostburg Castle
in the
Eisack Valley of the southern
Tyrol. Of the latter,
Brockedon writes: “the situation of
Trostberg is very fine,
on a rock separated by a ravine from the side of the mountain, but which is connected with it by a part of the building.
It stands on a commanding and beautiful spot, whence vineyards sweep down the side of the hill to the banks of the
Eisach, which flows in a torrent at its base”
(
Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The
Pass of the Brenner”, 6, and see pl. 3). Similarly, the
Hohen Rätien Castle
(named for its association with the legendary Rhaetians, and in
nineteenth‐century guidebooks variously called the
Castle Realt, Realta, or Rhaalta)
stands on a “lofty platform” above the
Hinterrhein and the
Domleschg Valley, “accessible only from the east: on all other sides the rock is a precipice”
(
Murray, Hand‐book for Travellers in Switzerland, 206).
Brockedon remarks that, on entering the
Via Mala, the traveler can look backward through the high narrow walls of the defile and glimpse the castle ruin beyond the entrance,
atop the sheer face of its precipice. This dramatic view is the subject of
Brockedonʼs
Gallery in the Verlohren Loch,
the title‐page vignette for the chapter “The
Passes of the Bernardin and the
Splugen”
(see
Brockedon, Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The
Pass of the Bernardin”, 7, title page). If
Ruskin intended to copy that vignette to illustrate
“Via Mala” (see below),
his design may have been to present here an approaching view, and there a departing view of the
Hohen Rätien Castle.
For “
Coire”,
Ruskin may also have turned to
Brockedon, whose
Coire shows “the approach to the city,
by the road from the
canton of St. Gall” and looks “up the valley of the
Rhine” in the direction of
Thusis, “clos[ing] with the mountains in which the
Rhine has its source”—in
other words, toward
Hohen Rätien Castle, the
Verlohren Loch, and the
Via Mala
(
Brockedon, Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The
Pass of the Bernardin”, 5, pl. 1).
“Splugen” (MS VIII)—“Covered
Bridge” is likely
Brockedonʼs
Covered Bridge across the Rhine at Splugen,
the ending vignette for the chapter “The
Passes of the Bernardin and the
Splugen” in
Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps.
In
Splügen village,
Brockedon explains, the new carriage road to the
San Bernardino Pass passed through the village and carried on through the valley,
while the road to
Splügen Pass carried the traveler away from the village through this covered bridge. “Galleries, coloured” and “Fountain” are unidentified as source images,
and their subjects are obscure as well. Respecting galleries,
Brockedon mentions “numerous covered ways, of strong masonry, . . . to guard against avalanches” along the road,
especially on the descending side (“The
Passes of the Bernardin and the
Splugen”, 9, 14). The galleries on the Italian side were at that time,
according to
Murray, “the longest on any Alpine high road”
(
Hand‐book for Travellers in Switzerland, 210).
A source image of the “
Ravine of Rofla” is unidentified, and the subject is placed out of topographical sequence in this series. The traveler reaches
Splügen Village
by passing first through the town of
Andeer, which connects with
Splügen through the defile of
Rofla. In the ravine,
Brockedon writes, “the
Rhine thunders amidst the rocks which check its rapid descent,
and falls in two magnificent cataracts. The
Rofla is extremely savage and dreary: rocks are strewn in the valley, and the
pines which they have brought down, and crushed in their fall,
increase the air of desolation. . . . Many sawmills are established in the
Rofla for cutting into planks the
pines which are felled in the mountains of the
Rhinwald [the
Rheinwald Valley],
and in which an extensive commerce is carried on with
Milan by the
Splugen [Pass]. Close to a large establishment of sawmills, a slide, similar to that of
Alpnach, is constructed”
(
Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The
Passes of the Bernardin and the
Splugen”, 8).
“The descent” (MS VIII)—The “
Brockedon”
likely refers to
Scene on the Descent from the Splugen.
The purpose of the plate is to show “the line of road” which “presents an extraordinary appearance, particularly near the
Casa di Recovero of
Tagiate,
whence the road is seen winding on the mountain side in a long serpentine track, which appears to return upon the observer, and is then, for some distance, lost
in the valley of
Isola; it re‐appears, however, and is seen again in some parts of its course through the valley of
St. Giacomo [i.e.,
Valle Spluga], and may be traced far in the depth and distance of
Campo Dolcino”.
The plate also depicts a man on a horse driving sheep and cattle on the road down the pass, suggesting the “immense flocks of sheep . . . pastured in these
Alps in the summer,
by Bergamasque shepherds”, and the “bustle and business going forward” in this season at the nearby “Austro‐Lombard custom‐house”
(
Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The
Passes of the Bernardin and the
Splugen”, 14, 13, and see pl. 6;
for the
hospice of “Tagiate” and the custom house, see also
Brockedon, Journals of Excursions in the Alps, 278–79).
By
1838, this zig‐zag was abandoned for a shorter route owing to repeated loss of life from avalanches (see
Murray, Hand‐book for Travellers in Switzerland, 210).
The source of a “coloured” image of “Passage of
Cardinell” is unidentified. The place itself (also
Kardinell,
Cardinells,
Cardinello Gorge)
was known to the Ruskins only by reputation, since the new carriage road bypassed this “dreadful defile” and “dangerous pass”, although its bridle path could still be accessed from
Isola.
The gorge had most recently gained notoriety as the scene of heavy losses to the French Revolutionary army under
Napoleonʼs Scottish general,
Etienne‐Jacques‐Joseph‐Alexandre Macdonald,
“who crossed the
Splügen between the
27th November and 4th December, 1800, long before the new road was begun, in the face of snow and storm, and other almost insurmountable obstacles”,
costing “nearly 100 men and as many horses, chiefly in the passage of the
Cardinell. His columns were literally cut through by the falling avalanches, and man and beast swept over to certain annihilation in the abyss below”
(
Murray, Hand‐book for Travellers in Switzerland, 210; see also
Ebel, Travellerʼs Guide through Switzerland, 333;
Brockedon, Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The
Passes of the Bernardin and the
Splugen”, 14).
“Cascade”: no source image identified.
Mary Richardson wrote that “a short distance from
Chiavenna we passed a fine waterfall, it must have been 300 feet high”.
Since she provides no other details about the ride from the Austrian‐Lombard customs house to the arrival at
Chiavenna, the location of the waterfall is conjectural.
Coming down from the mountain and entering the “ravine of the upper valley of
St. Giacomo”, as
Brockedon describes, the family would have passed the
Cascada di Pianazzo,
formed by “the
torrent of the Pianazza [i.e., the
Scalcoggia] falling into the
Lira”; “seen from the ravine”,
Brockedon goes on, “its upper part intercepts the sky,
from which it appears to be continually pouring”. Writing in
1838,
Murray regretted that, as one consequence of changing the course of the road since
1834,
it now crossed above the falls, thus depriving travelers of this view that the Ruskins would have enjoyed
(
Brockedon, Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The
Passes of the Bernardin and the
Splugen”, 14;
Murray, Hand‐book for Travellers in Switzerland, 210–11).
“Como” (MS VIII)—The
location of “Sketch on lake of
Chiavenna with boat” is today known as
Lago di Mezzola;
see
“Lago di Como” and glosses.
Ruskinʼs term
sketch suggests his own travel sketch rather than a plate to be copied. No sketch definitely identified with this subject from
1833 is currently known,
but a possible candidate for the resulting vignette is
Lake Scene with Building on Piers Drawing,
from among the gallery of unassigned vignettes placed at the end of the
MS IX fair copy of the
“Account”. The small passenger boat in the vignette suggests the rowboat that carried the Ruskins
from
Lago di Mezzola to
Damaso at the north end of
Lago di Como, where they embarked on a steamer to
Cadenabbia.
“
Como from
Stanfield” presumably refers to an engraving after
Clarkson Stanfield. One scene,
Le Lac de Como, engraved on steel by
Robert Wallis and published in the
Keepsake français for
1831,
is set above the rooftops of a lakeside settlement, looking across the water to another town. In the foreground, an ornate stairway and balustrade, apparently belonging to a villa,
stages a figure group in Italian costume—two women playing music, and a man listening
(
Keepsake français . . . 1831, 214 opp.).
A different scene in an
1825 painting,
Lake Como, presents a less elegant group in the foreground—a plainly dressed couple with a basket,
seated on the bare ground of the shore—while boatmen are busy surrounding a common village in the middle distance.
In the
1826 depiction of
Lago di Como, the emphasis is on the lake as an Alpine feature with its surrounding mountains,
rather than on the sophistication of the Italian lakeside villa—the result of
Stanfieldʼs first tour of the
Alps, which he took in
1824 in the company
of
William Brockedon (
van der Merwe and Took, Spectacular Career of Clarkson Stanfield, 115).
This painting, which is now part of the Tate Britain collection, was engraved by
John Cousen (
1804–80), whose career as steel engraver specializing in landscape had begun by the
1830s,
but further research is required to determine when and for what venue he executed the print of this easel painting
(see
Dafforne, Pictures by Clarkson Stanfield, 34 opp.).
Ruskinʼs remaining note for this section, “Small part town” is not only unidentified but enigmatic. The phrase might annotate the Stanfield picture, meaning that Ruskin intended to use only a “small part” of it—namely, the view
of the “town” across the water. Either of the Como pictures identified here would lend themselves to that treatment; indeed, Ruskinʼs figure‐drawing skill would probably have been unequal to imitating
the foreground figures in the 1831 print.
“Cadenab[b]ia” (MS VIII)—For
Rogersʼs
Italy,
Turner drew the vignette
Lake of Como to accompany
Rogersʼs poem
“Como”, which is set in
Bellagio, although
Turnerʼs picture can be read as spanning the
water between
Bellagio and
Cadenabbia
(
Italy, 32).
By
1834, two major illustrated publications answered to the description “
Lord Byron”. One, the seventeen‐volume
Works of Lord Byron (
1832–33),
with plates by
Turner,
Stanfield, and others, contains no view of
Lake Como.
The second,
Letters and Journals of Lord Byron (
1833),
engraved by the Finden brothers,
William and
Edward, after numerous artists,
does include a plate,
Bellagio, Lago di Como,
drawn by
Henry Gastineau (
ca. 1790–1876). The plate accompanies an
1816 letter
by
Byron to his publisher,
John Murray II, describing his crossing of the
Simplon,
travel along the
Lago di Maggiore road, and stay in
Milan.
Gastineauʼs
plate is not interesting, except in positioning ordinary people near a common church and bell tower in the foreground. The Ruskins acquired
Letters and Journals in
December 1833
(see
Moore, ed., Letters and Journals of Lord Byron, 2:263 opp., 263–66;
Dearden, Library of John Ruskin, 231–32).
A drawing of
Lecco could not be based on personal experience, since the Ruskins did not visit the town,
but they did cross over to the eastern leg of the lake, which
Mary Richardson learned to call the “
Lake of Lecco”
(
Diary of Mary Richardson, 1833, 43).
By copying
Brockedonʼs plate
Lecco,
Ruskin was able to reference this experience, since
Brockedonʼs plate is a representation less of
Lecco itself
than of the lake and the “high mountain” opposite the town “which sinks abruptly to the lake” and which “is seen . . .from
Milan”—
Resegone,
which
Ruskin calls “
Lecco mountains” in his poem
“Cadenabbia”.
From
Brockedonʼs text,
Ruskin would have learned to understand this side of the lake as a terminus
of the
Stelvio Pass, which the Austrians constructed as a military and commercial route to
Milan
(
Brockedon, Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The
Pass of the Monte Stelvio”, 89, pl. 5).
The “beginning of
Rogers memory” probably refers to
Samuel Rogersʼs poem
The Pleasures of Memory,
which in the
1834 illustrated
Poems
begins with a half‐title page for part 1 of the poem, opposite a plate by
J. M. W. Turner,
A Garden, engraved by
William Miller.
Presenting a fountain on an elaborate terrace with a semicircular balustrade, the garden scene is suggestively Italianate. In contrast,
the artistʼs plate that heads the beginning of the poem per se,
A Village,
positions the spectator on a hill overlooking a familiarly English village with its pointed Gothic church and a neoclassical manor house in the distance.
Enhancing the Italian feel of
A Garden,
Rogersʼs half‐title page
also carries an epigraph from
Petrarch, although the lines suggest a scene more akin to the English scene than to the Italianate garden:
“Dolce sentier, . . . / Colle, che mi piacesti, . . . / Ovʼancor per usanza Amor mi mena; / Ben riconosco in voi lʼusate forme, /
Non, lasso, in me” (Sweet lane . . . / Hill that pleased me . . . / Where my old custom Love can still entice, / I recognize in you the usual traces, /
But not in me) (
Rogers, Poems, 2, 7, 3;
Petrarch,
Canzonieri, 301 [“Valle che deʼ lamenti miei seʼ piena”], in
Sonnets and Songs, trans. Armi, 422–23).
“Villa plin[iana]” (MS VIII)—“Villa Poro”
is unidentified. The Ruskins visited several villas, all of which can be identified, as they rowed south from
Cadenabbia, following the eastern shore of the
lake toward the city of
Como,
and then crossed to the western shore near the city in order to view villas along the
Via Regina. Along this passage or anywhere else along
Lake Como, a villa named “Poro”
has so far gone undetected in English guidebooks published in the
first half of the nineteenth century. It is possible that, on the subsequent journey from
Como to
Milan,
the Ruskins encountered a place associated with the noble Lombard family, Porro. According to
Mary Richardson, this drive lasted four‐and‐a‐half hours, which is precisely
the time allowed in an
1836 guidebook for the shortest coach journey—a twenty‐five mile route passing through
Barlassina, which traverses the
Brianza region, associated
with the Porro family (
Diary of Mary Richardson, 1833, 46;
Mazzoni, The Travellerʼs Guide of Milan, 87–89).
The waterfall “
Cascata di Nesso” (published image unidentified) is a memory of the “first place we stopped at after leaving
Cadenabbia”,
as
Mary Richardson wrote in her diary, noting that the family was fortunate to encounter the falls in full force, a “fine body of water”.
Falling “straight between two rocks” that “rise so perpendicularly and so near each other that the sun never reaches the bottom”, the cascade chilled the travelers
“when we went in between the rocks”. Continuing south, the Ruskins stopped at a succession of villas:
Villa Pliniana, the subject of
Ruskinʼs poem;
Villa La Roda or
Villa Pasta (now demolished), belonging to the singer
Giuditta Pasta (
1797–1865), but which
Mary confused with the
Villa Tanzi in
Perlasca, near
Torno;
Villa dʼEste in
Cernobbio, where
Queen Caroline (
1768–1821) lived for a time on her travels prompted by her quarrels with the
Prince Regent, and where the Ruskins were “shocked”
to be told that she had converted the villa chapel into a theater; and
Villa Odescalchi (a.k.a.,
Villa Olmo),
designed by the neoclassical architect
Simone Cantoni (
1736–1818)
(
Diary of Mary Richardson, 1833, 44–45).
“
Prouts port of
Como” might refer to either of two plates of
Como published in
The Tourist in Switzerland and Italy (
1830),
by
Thomas Roscoe and illustrated by
Samuel Prout. In one,
Como,
engraved by
J. T. Willmore (p. 137 opp.), the view is taken from the lake, looking south to the city, which extends across the shoreline; in the other,
Lake of Como,
engraved by
William Miller (frontispiece), the view is taken from the shore near a pier where boats are gathered. In
Como,
the right side of the picture (the west side of the city) is dominated by the “conical hill, on whose highest summit are the scattered ruins of an ancient castle”—
Castello Baradello,
with its “lofty square turret still crowning the top” (
Mazzoni, The Travellerʼs Guide of Milan, 93)—and
on the left side of the picture (the east side of the city) the Rococo cupola of the
Duomo is conspicuous, with its Gothic nave extending parallel to the plate. In the foreground, fishermen throw their nets from a boat, which is
anchored near a stone pier. In
Lake of Como, the scene looks out to the lake from the town,
the vantage point being from the eastern side of town beneath the castle ruin. The
Castello Baradello is not visible, but a hill nearer the shore appears on the left.
Close to shore, boats huddle behind a stone breakwater, and stairs lead up walls bordering the water to a large building with balconies. This picture seems the likelier source for
Ruskinʼs “port of
Como”,
although the scene does not clearly conform to an
1847 guidebook description of “the little port of
Como” as “formed by two piers, each ending in a square pavilion”
(
Maule, Hand‐book for Travellers in Northern Italy, 135).
In
Ruskinʼs final image selected for this section,
Como, from the Road to Erba,
William Brockedon illustrates the final stretch of the route descending from the
Stelvio Pass—“the great military road over
Monte Stelvio,
by which the
Emperor of Austria . . . opened, across the
Alps, a new line of communication between his German and his Italian states, . . . a work of great political importance,
as it will enable him . . . to descend directly upon
Milan, without violating the territory or infringing the privileges of any other government in his line of march”.
For
Brockedon, the plate describes the end of this route in “the approach to
Como . . . one of the most beautiful views in which this city is an object”.
For the Ruskins, a vista like this of
Como would have formed a receding view, as they drove away from the city, southeast toward
Milan.
Brockedon explains the plate, in which
Como “is seen, far below the vineyards
which skirt the road [in the foreground of the picture], deeply embosomed in the mountains; the
Duomo, and part of the city of
Como, are seen bordering the lake,
which in this view is almost hidden by the surrounding hills [blocking the view of the lake as it extends to the right, i.e. northern, edge of the scene].
On the left is the
monastery of San Salvatore, in a commanding situation [in the middle distance, on an eminence above the road]; and above
Como are its conical hills,
surmounted by castellated ruins [i.e.,
Castello Baradello, on the same line of vision as the monastery, but far beyond that towered building].
Beyond the hills which surround the lake, the
Alps are seen stretching across the horizon, and conspicuous among these is the beautiful form of
Monte Rosa”
(
Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The
Pass of the Monte Stelvio”, 1, 12, pl. 6).
Although
Brockedonʼs vista of
Como is taken east of the city, and therefore would not have been visible to the Ruskins as they departed
Como—heading south, most
likely on the road to
Barlassina, as explained above—
Ruskin chose the plate well as an approximate intersection with their route, which would have curved around the hill topped by
Castello Baradello.
In
Brockedonʼs opinion, the new road that led to this vista of
Como, descending from the
Stelvio and running through the
Valtellina to the northern shore of
Lake Como, when completed would “probably offer to the traveller
the most beautiful route in
Europe for its extent” along the lakeshore to
Lecco and curving around the bottom of the lake toward
Como
(
Brockedon, Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The
Pass of the Monte Stelvio”, 11).
“Domo dʼOssola” (MS VIII)—Of the items in the
list of proposed illustrations corresponding to the entry for
“Domo dʼOssola”,
the first,
“Isola bella”, was likely the drawing realized as the untitled
Lakeside with Terraced Villa,
included in the gallery of drawings inserted at the end of the
MS IX fair copy of the
“Account”. This drawing depicts with considerable accuracy
the terraced gardens on
Isola Bella, viewed from the side of the island opposite its palace.
Ruskinʼs drawing appears influenced by
J. M. W. Turnerʼs vignettes for the
1830 illustrated edition of
Samuel Rogersʼs
Italy, such as
A Villa (Villa Madama—Moonlight) or
Lake of Como.
The former illustrates
Rogersʼs poem,
“The Feluca”
(a poem set near
Genoa, on the seacoast, not on the lakes); and the latter illustrates
Rogersʼs closing poem,
“A Farewell”
(a poem composed, according to
Rogersʼs footnote, at
Susa, in the mountains above
Turin, again not on the lakes)
(see
Piggott, Turnerʼs Vignettes, 98).
What Ruskin means by the second entry in the list of proposed illustrations, “Rogers”, is mysterious, since the annotation sits
between “Isola Bella” and “Domo dʼOssola” and might refer to either place—yet neither of which places is illustrated in
Samuel Rogersʼs 1830 Italy.
Next, for the view of
Domo dʼOssola,
Ruskin is at pains to distinguish between two engravings in
Brockedonʼs
Illustrations,
reserving the other for the following section,
“Farewell to Italy”.
Since he specifies “(not from defile of
Simplon)”, he must mean here the engraving,
Domo dʼOssola, from Saint Marco. In
Brockedonʼs tours, this view lies along a route
from
Switzerland to
Italy via the pass of
Gries, which was accessible only by mule—“a less known”
but “more direct route to
Domo dʼOssola”,
Brockedon says, “from
Obergestelen,
a village in the
Haut‐Valais”, and presenting “scenes of wildness and grandeur . . . no where exceeded in the
Alps”.
Although this passage lay out of the Ruskinsʼ way,
Ruskinʼs choice of engraving credibly suggests the familyʼs departing view of
Domo dʼOssola on their way to the
Simplon Pass,
since
Brockedon situates it near the end of the
Gries route where “the road . . . falls into the great route of the
Simplon”
(
Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The Grimsel and the Gries”, 1, 12). For another example of
Ruskinʼs adaptation of an illustration from
Brockedonʼs chapter, “The Grimsel and the Gries”, see
“Brieg”.
Ruskinʼs “My own view with crags” is unidentified.
For
Ritchie, Travelling Sketches in the North of Italy, the Tyrol, and on the Rhine,
which was
Heathʼs Picturesque Annual for 1832,
Clarkson Stanfield likewise drew views both of
Domo dʼOssola and
Lago Maggiore.
The former shows a view of the town from the bridge leading to it and the mountains beyond; and the latter view looks out over the
Borromean Islands
from a villa on the shore of the lake, with
Isola Bella especially prominent with its palace and gardens (pp. 81 opp., 116 opp.).
The bookʼs title page vignette gives a near view of the Borromeo palace on the lake, which contrasts with the frontispiece opposite,
Klumm,
a scene of a rugged hill castle in the
Tyrolean valley of the
Inn River, near
Innsbruck.
“Farewell [to Italy]” (MS VIII)—By
specifying a view of
Domo dʼOssola “from deflie”,
Ruskin means the second of two engravings that name that town
in
Brockedonʼs
Illustrations—namely,
Val dʼOssola from the Defile of the Dovedro.
(For
Ruskinʼs use of the other engraving, see the preceding section,
Domo dʼOssola.)
The sceneʼs foreground situates the traveler on the road from the pass,
descending to the serene and cultivated plain of
Italy, which impressively bursts
“upon the traveller at the end of his journey through the savage defile of the
Dovedro [i.e.,
Diveria River]”,
Brockedon writes.
(In
Ruskinʼs adaptation, the traveler would be bidding farewell to this scene, ascending the road toward the defile.)
The glimpse of
Domo dʼOssola includes a span of the
Ponte di Crevola,
then considered “one of the finest structures in the world . . . raised 100 feet high” above the
Dovedro, and a frequent subject for artists
(
Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The Simplon”, 14).
Ruskin follows this parting view of
Domo dʼOssola scene with a “vignette” of the “Entrance to
Gondo Gallery”—that is,
Brockedonʼs title‐page vignette,
The Great Gallery near Gondo,
for the
Simplon chapter of
Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps.
As
Brockedon describes the scene, “a place” in the
Val Divedro, “where a bridge leads from the right to the left bank of the
Dovedro [Diveria]”,
is traversed by “a gallery, cut through the granite, 596 English feet long, which at the opening on the Italian side
crosses the waterfall of the
Frassinone [Cascata di Frassinone]”
(
Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The Simplon”, 12, title page).
Ruskinʼs copy of the vignette survives
among the untitled drawings gathered at the end of the
MS IX fair copy of the
“Account”;
see
Mountain Gorge Drawing [Entrance to Gondo Gorge].
“Glaciers” (MS VIII)—The
illustration after William Brockedon, “Defile of Dovedro looking back”, probably refers to Defile of the Dovedro [i.e., Diveria River] near Gondo.
Ruskin probably intended to reverse the direction of the travelers in Brockedonʼs picture, so that they approached the viewer, “looking back” to Gondo as did the Ruskins,
traveling away from Italy toward the Swiss side of the Simplon.
Ruskinʼs source for a drawing of the “
Bernese Alps from
Simplon” is probably
Brockedonʼs
The Bernese Alps from the Simplon.
Brockedon comments: “The scene from the summit is very magnificent”; approaching from the Swiss side,
“between the
Schalbet and the glacier galleries, the eye can descend to
Naters,
a village in the valley of the
Rhone, and rise to the prodigious peaks which pinnacle the range of the
Bernese Alps”.
Further on, “the magnificent peaks of the
Breithorn, the
Jungfrau, and the
Monch [
Mönch], form with their glaciers,
over the deep valley of the
Saltine, one of the finest scenes in this range of the
Alps”
(
Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The Simplon”, 10). The
Schalbet is a gallery of the
Simplon Road drilled through one hundred feet of rock;
for
John Murray III, the name also referred to a desolate gorge above that gallery, closer to the summit.
The
Saltine [i.e.,
Saltina] is an Alpine river, leading down to
Brig at the foot of the
Simplon, and rising according to
Brockedon
“in the glaciers of the
Schonhorn, whence torrents descend . . . led through finely constructed aqueducts . . . beneath the [
Simplon] road . . . [to]
fall into the ravine below”. What
Brockedon intends by the
“Schonhorn” is not clear, but
Murray locates
the source of the river in the
Kaltwasser Glacier on
Monte Leone above the
Glacier Galleries that
Brockedon likewise describes
(
Murray, Hand‐book for Travellers in Switzerland, 159;
Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps, “The Simplon”, 9;
and see the
1822 lithographs by
James Pattison Cockburn (
1779–1847),
Gallery of Schalbet, Swiss Side and
Gallery of the Glaciers, Italian Side
in
Cockburn, Views to Illustrate the Route of the Simplon).
The poem
“An Adventure” by
Samuel Rogers relates the abduction of the poetʼs persona by banditti,
who march him into the hills to await ransom. The ordeal frames another tale by one of the banditti. The vignette after
J.M.W. Turner, which illustrates this poem
and which
Ruskin proposed to copy for
“The Glaciers”, is entitled
“Banditti”
(see
Piggott, Turnerʼs Vignettes, 98, 36).
It depicts a group of bandits huddled on an eminence in the foreground, overlooking a mountainside road,
which presumably they are scouting for prey. The road snakes toward them alongside a gorge, through which a torrent pours from a great height.
The scene may well have reminded
Ruskin of the waterfall of the
Frassinone in the
Gondo Gorge or other torrents along the
Simplon Road
(see
“Farewell to Italy”);
however, the setting of
Rogersʼs story or of
Turnerʼs vignette is unspecified.
“Brieg” (MS VIII)—“My recollection” is unidentified.
“The glaciers of the
Rhone” was probably to be based on
Glaciers and Source of the Rhone
by
William Brockedon for “The Grimsel and the Gries” section of his
Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps.
Brockedonʼs drawing, which was engraved as the closing vignette in his gallery of illustrations for these two passes,
exhibits “the first view of these glaciers” encountered along the
Grimsel Pass, “the most striking in which they can be seen,
because their entire mass is observed, from the summit to the base. . . . The source of the
Rhone is usually visited from below,
where the nearest mass intercepting the highest, leaves an impression greatly inferior to that which the vast whole produces”
(
Brockedon, Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The Grimsel and the Gries”, 7).
Just as in his proposed adaptation of another plate from “The Grimsel and the Gries”,
Domo dʼOssola, from Saint Marco,
which he projected for use in the section,
“Domo dʼOssola”,
Ruskin finds in
Brockendon a source for illustrating
Brig that is convincing in geographic terms, since this village at the foot of the
Simplon
presented the Ruskins with their first view of the upper
Rhône, which descends from the
Rhône Glacier.
In
1833, however, the Ruskins did not witness
Brockendonʼs view of the glacier, which was out of their way along the route through the
Grimsel Pass,
an excursion accessible only on foot and by mule. Even during the
Tour of 1835,
when the Ruskins undertook the strenuous and dangerous climb to the
Hospice of the Grimsel from
Meyringen on
24–27 August,
they did not see this view of the glacier, which is visible only from the
Valais side of the pass. If they had any intention at that time of continuing
over the pass to the
Valais side, the plan was thwarted by a snowstorm, which confined them indoors until they could turn back to
Meyringen
(
Hanley and Hull, ed., John Ruskinʼs Continental Tour 1835, 94, 294).
Brockedon comments that the inclusion of the
Grimsel in his
Illustrations
may seem scarcely justified since access to the pass is difficult and it lacks association with “events of historical importance”. Nonetheless, in summer,
excursions to the
Grimsel rewarded tourists with remarkable “picturesque scenery”.
Starting from the town of
Meyringen (Meiringen) in the
Aar River valley of the
Oberhasli,
excursions were popular not only to the
hospice near the pass but also to magnificent waterfalls, such as the
Handek (Handegg) Falls and
Reichenbach Falls
(
Brockedon, Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The Grimsel and the Gries”, 1–2, 4, 5). In
1835,
Ruskin was especially impressed by the
Handek Falls, which he declared
“the very finest fall in
Switzerland, not excepting the
fall of the . . . Rhine”, although he allowed the caveat that “there is no occasion to disparage . . .
[the
Rhine Falls] in order to praise the
Handek whose beauty indeed is rather of a different Character than of a superior degree”
(
Hanley and Hull, ed., John Ruskinʼs Continental Tour 1835, 89–90).
“The valley of
Rhone above,
Martigny from
Brockedon” refers to
Brockedonʼs
The Valley of the Rhone, above Martigny,
the first plate (after the chapter title vignette) for the “
Pass of the Great Saint Bernard” chapter of
Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps.
In
Brockedonʼs text, the plate orients the reader to
Martigny as a hub for travelers coming to and from various directions:
“The scene from the old
castle of
Martigny [the solitary architectural feature in the plate] is very fine,
particularly looking up the valley of the
Rhone. In this direction the view extends to the
Mount Saint Gothard”: that is, looking east,
extending through the
Rhône valley in the direction from which the Ruskins had traveled from
Brig, the vista is closed by the
Saint Gotthard massif,
which rises even beyond the mountain glacier source of the
Rhône. “[D]own the valley”,
Brockedon continues,
“the scene is bounded by the
Jura”: that is, looking north, extending in the other direction taken by the
Rhône (not shown in the plate), from where the river turns sharply
at
Martigny to flow toward
Lake Geneva, the vista is closed by the
Jura mountains. “[I]n the direction of the mountains of the
Great Saint Bernard”,
Brockedon concludes, “the eye commands the town of
Martigny, and the estuary of the
Drance”: that is, looking south, one overlooks the main part of
Martigny,
where the
Dranse joins the
Rhône. The river issues from the
Val dʼEntremont, which leads
to the pass of the
Great St. Bernard”
(
Brockedon, Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The Great Saint Bernard”, 1–2).
Both the
Turner and the
Brockedon views feature the castle of
La Bâtiaz, built by a bishop of
Sion in the
early thirteenth century,
and continually contested between the bishopric of
Sion and the House of Savoy until the castle was ruined in the
early sixteenth century.
Brockedonʼs view differs from
Turnerʼs, however, in framing the castle on its eminence, dominating the right side of the composition
as a solitary, ruined watch tower overlooking the distant, eastern expanse of the
Rhône valley, and with only goats and wild foliage occupying the foreground,
whereas
Turnerʼs picture is a sociable scene of the city with the tower rising in the distance. Serving as a tailpiece to
Rogersʼs poem,
“Marguerite de Tours”,
Turnerʼs vignette introduces figures,
as do
Thomas Stothardʼs genre scenes that normally occupy this tailpiece position for illustrations.
Turnerʼs view looks west to the castle tower
from the entrance to the town, the near scene busy with the accommodation of tourists:
members of a seated group of women and children gaze back of the viewer, as if welcoming the visitor with the provisions by their side;
a carriage enters the town, its postilion riding the pair of horses and pointing the way into the high street; the nearest building advertises itself on the wall facing the viewer as
“
LA CYGNE”, a “
LOGE À PIED ET À CHEVAL”
(
Brockedon, Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The Great Saint Bernard”, plate 1;
Rogers, Italy [1830], 28).
The detail of the innʼs name echoes the end of
Rogersʼs poem—“I will not forget / Thy hospitable roof, M
arguerite de T
ours; /
Thy sign the silver swan”—but it also points to a hidden darkness amidst
Turnerʼs cheerful scene. As
Jan Piggott has found,
the host of that inn, who was fondly remembered by travelers, was drowned in the flood of
1818 that destroyed a large portion of
Martigny.
In
1834, when compiling his plan for illustration,
Ruskin could have found a eulogy for “the landlord of the
Swan Inn”
as part of an account of the
Martigny flood included in
Jenningʼs Landscape Annual for 1830, published the same year as the illustrated
Italy
(
Piggott, Turnerʼs Vignettes, 37;
Roscoe, The Tourist in Switzerland and Italy, 77).
If
Ruskin missed these connections at that time, he noted years later in reference to this illustration that
La Cygne was
Turnerʼs preferred inn when based in
Martigny
(
Ruskin,
Catalogue of the Turner Sketches in the National Gallery [part 1 (1857)],
in
Ruskin, Works, 13:203).
Ruskin would also have known a plate by
Samuel Prout,
Martigny, for
Jenningʼs Landscape Annual for 1830.
The scene is much closer than
Turnerʼs to the tower of
La Bâtiaz.
Whereas
Turnerʼs vignette features the lively tourist accommodations
on the
Simplon road,
Proutʼs plate
dwells on the picturesque textures of humble, roughly patched chalets beneath the symbolic memorial to ruined power towering above them
(
Roscoe, The Tourist in Switzerland and Italy, 73 opp.).
This scene lay within the compass of the main town of
Martigny (I am grateful to
Daniela Vaj for this information). As
John Murray III explains,
Martigny
“consist[ed] of two parts—the one situated on the
Simplon road”, which served
as “the constant resort of travellers”, and which presumably is represented by
Turnerʼs bustling scene;
and “the other,
Bourg de Martigny”, which
lay “more than a mile distant up the valley of the
Dranse”
(
Murray, Hand‐book for Travellers in Switzerland, 155).
Brockedon, with his usual distaste for whatever could not be accommodated to the picturesque or sublime,
calls the
Bourg “a narrow dirty village”, which he regrets that travelers were compelled “to traverse”,
“after leaving the inn at
Martigny, where travellers usually rest”, in order to connect with the road ascending to the pass of the
Great St. Bernard
(
Brockedon, Illustrations of the Passes of the Alps,
“The Great Saint Bernard”, 2).
Proutʼs humble scene, however, also does not show
Bourg de Martigny.